As we grow more aware of what we put on and in our bodies, there are some skin care ingredients you might be familiar with.
We all know that fragrances, phthalates, parabens, alcohol, and other harsh ingredients can cause more harm than good1. Many skincare ingredients have been banned in some countries, which makes you question if the products you are using are actually safe or not.
Have you ever noticed the names PEG-100, polyethylene glycol, or any PEG compound on the ingredient labels of your personal care products? They are commonly used as emulsifiers, conditioners, and surfactants in cosmetic products.
A lot of controversy surrounds PEGs and their potential effects on health. While most brands claim to use PEGs in a safe manner (backed by FDA’s clearance) with minimal to zero side effects, others denounce even the tiniest risk to health and claim to make PEG-free “CLEAN” products.
The caveat, here, is that some clean beauty brands may cash in on the customers’ fear of strangely sounding ingredients, branding themselves as clean and becoming popular.
This is where I step in…
I am going to cover the topic in depth so you can learn what PEGs actually are, how they can impact your health, and whether you are okay with using them in your daily routine. Let’s get started!
What Are PEGs?
First things first, let’s get to the basics.
PEGs, or polyethylene glycols are petroleum-based compounds found in cosmetic and personal care products such as creams, hair conditioners, shower gels, lotions, cleansers, and soaps to name a few.
If we were to break it down2:
- P stands for poly, short for polymers
- E stands for ethylene, a gas which is a hydrocarbon made of hydrogen and carbon
- G stands for glycol, a type of alcohol
So when we say PEG, we mean polymers of ethylene glycol, or “polyethylene glycol”.
You must have noticed that PEGs always have a number associated with them such as PEG-10, PEG 20, PEG-40, PEG-100, etc.
These numbers signify the molecular weight of the type of PEG used. Usually, cosmetic brands use PEGs with lower molecular weight. As a general rule of thumb, that offers better skin penetration.
PEGs are not dangerous on their own but the by-products made during their manufacturing process can pose risks to our health under certain conditions. This is the reason why people may tag PEGs as unsafe.
During the production of PEGs, various chemicals and heavy metals are formed and released into the environment. These include ethylene oxide, and 1,4-dioxane, both of which are known carcinogens and potentially harmful in high doses.
However, the FDA and CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Panel have declared PEGs to be safe for use, as they are only introduced in the products once they have been purified of impurities maximally3.Secondly, the residual quantities of pollutants in the end products are too low to actually be able to cause cancer4.
That being said, PEGs have been reported to cause irritation, especially when used on broken skin.
PEGs, PEG100, PEG100 Stearate – Are They The Same?
PEGs are polymers of ethylene glycol, or simply put, polyethylene glycol.
One of these PEGs, namely the PEG-100 is a polyethylene glycol polymer that has near 100 ethylene oxide monomers. When it is bonded to stearic acid (a naturally occurring fatty acid), it is called PEG stearate5.
PEG 100 Stearate is widely used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, mostly for its emulsifying ability.
Why Is Polyethylene Glycol Used In Skincare?
Given below are some of the reasons why PEGs are used in skin care products profoundly6. They are used as:
- Emulsifiers: They help to mix water-based ingredients well with oil-based ingredients, helping them reach a smooth texture. This emulsifying action is also a reason why PEGs are used in cleansers, as they easily lift off residual impurities such as dirt and oil from the skin.
- Thickeners: Since PEGs are petroleum-based, they give the products a smooth and thicker feel.
- Emollients: PEGs soften the skin and seal the moisture while enabling other cosmetic ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin.
- Transporters: They help products reach deeper into the skin.
- Humectants: They lock in moisture and prevent the products from cracking and drying out, without being sticky unlike glycerin (another humectant).
- Surfactants: Since PEGs mix oil and water seamlessly in a product without letting the product become unstable, they are commonly used as surfactants and cleansers.
Other than being used in cosmetics, PEGs are also used in medicine (as excipients, and laxatives, etc), manufacturing, and food (additives).
PRO TIP: If you’re interested in science behind beauty, make sure to check out my other articles about skincare ingredients.
Issues & Controversies Around PEGs
Now that you know all about what PEGs are and how they work, let’s talk about the potential issues and controversies around PEGs:
Enhanced Penetration
One of the biggest concerns around products with PEGs is their enhanced absorption. PEGs often act as transport vehicles or penetration enhancers for products.
If the skin barrier is damaged or compromised, PEGs can further irritate your skin. Since they might contain contaminants, it is very important to avoid PEGs if your skin is damaged, broken, or irritated.
Also, if your product contains harsh ingredients like fragrance, alcohol, or parabens, PEGs will enable them to reach deep down into your skin. This is one of the compelling reasons why people switch to clean beauty products.
Impurities & Toxicity
Though products that contain PEGs are generally considered safe, however, there are some harmful ingredients or by-products that might contaminate them during the manufacturing process.
One of those toxic substances is ethylene oxide, which is a known carcinogen, respiratory irritant7, and environmental hazard.
Similarly, 1-4-dioxane (by-product) has been linked to cause uterine and breast cancers8.
Other than that, PEGs also contain heavy metals (lead, nickel, arsenic, iron, and cobalt) and many polycyclic aromatic compounds.
Various studies have been conducted to analyze the safety and toxicity of PEGs.
Mostly they conclude that PEG compounds are generally safe to be added to personal care formulations when the residual contaminants and by-products have been removed9.
Irritation & Damaged Skin
When the skin’s natural barrier is damaged or compromised, using PEGs can irritate the skin further. This can also lead to extended absorption of ingredients and may cause further damage.
Since PEGs are surfactants, they might throw off the normal water-oil balance on the skin’s surface, disrupting the natural barrier.
A study showed that PEGs were the culprits behind kidney toxicity in burn patients after using an antibacterial cream that contained PEGs.
The enhanced absorption may even give rise to allergic reactions in certain individuals.
Organic & Natural Cosmetics
With the rising awareness, people are switching to products with more organic and natural ingredients, as most organic beauty brands avoid using PEGs and unsustainable chemicals.
Since PEGs may cause irritation and various issues with human health, organic or cleaner products are more reliable.
However, some brands use this fearmongering to promote themselves.
If the skin is intact and a person is healthy, PEGs do not pose much risk.
With that being said, it is entirely up to the customer whether they are comfortable using PEGs in their daily lives or not.
If you have sensitive skin that gets irritated quite easily, it is better to steer clear of PEGs and heal your skin barrier with natural, soothing, and suitable ingredients.
Environmental Concerns
The use of PEGs is not limited to beauty and hygiene products only; they are used in pharmaceutical, biomedical, chemical, industrial, and commercial fields.
With the widespread usage, they are definitely contributing to environmental pollution. When PEGs are produced, certain contaminants, aromatic compounds, and heavy metals are released into the environment.
Example includes ethylene oxide which is reprotoxic, flammable, and toxic10.
Though the quantities have to be relatively very high to cause detrimental effects, long-term exposure to PEGs and related pollutants is a risk not many people would like to undertake.
However, the regulating bodies and various studies11 emphasize that when they are manufactured with the safety guidelines, PEGs are safe for consumption, whether pharmaceutical or cosmetic.
Since people are more environmentally aware today, PEGs are often perceived as dirty or questionable ingredients in a product.
Reasons To Switch To PEG-Free Skincare
If you are trying to make up your mind about switching to PEG-free skincare, here are some reasons to do just that:
- Clean and safe products
Why use something that might be associated with potential health hazards when you can opt for clean and gentle products, without compromising on quality?
There are many brands that make a wide range of products that are PEG-free and yield amazing results.
- Availability of practical alternatives
There are certain natural alternatives that can replace PEGs for their particular actions.
For instance, naturally sourced phytosqualan, a type of squalane can replace PEGs for emollient properties.
Similarly, plant-based texture agents can be used instead of PEGs to stabilize the textures of products12.
- No lingering risks
PEG-free beauty means no hidden ingredients and no hovering risks.
Though they are considered to be safe by regulatory authorities, PEGs can be associated with carcinogenic by-products during the manufacturing process, hence some people prefer to avoid even the tiniest of risks.
- Avoid further skin damage
The ingredients in your product will optimally penetrate, without the risk of aggravation or skin damage.
Since PEGs have emulsifying and surfactant properties that can disrupt the skin barrier, going PEG-free will also help your skin barrier to stay intact without losing its surface tension.
- Environment-friendly choice
As we become more eco-conscious, it is our duty to promote sustainability and reduce our carbon footprint by any means possible.
Since the production of PEGs is associated with pollutants and heavy metals, going PEG-free is a step toward sustainability.
Final Decision: Should You Avoid PEGs In Beauty Products?
By now, I am sure you must have grasped the gist of what PEGs are, what they are used for, and how they can affect us.
They are not as bad as some brands tout them to be.
PEGs are found in cosmetic, commercial, pharmaceutical, and biomedical fields, with widespread usage as thickening, humectant, emollient, stabilizing, conditioning, and cleansing agents.
There is a certain controversy surrounding PEGs, especially regarding the formation of toxic ingredients during the production of PEGs.
However, studies show that the quantities of those pollutants are very negligible to be able to cause health and environmental hazards. This is why most brands claim that they are safe for use in cosmetics.
With that being said, it is always a good idea to check the ingredient list of your products, so you can make an informed choice.
Since PEGs can irritate broken or damaged skin, it is best to avoid them if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
Are PEGs Bad For You? – FAQ
PEGs are not necessarily bad for us, but it all pans down to personal choices and skin concerns.
Here are some questions you might have regarding PEGs.
Why Are PEGs Bad For Hair?
As PEGs are petroleum-based, they draw out natural moisture from the hair and cause breakage.
Is PEG Carcinogenic?
PEGs might contain impurities such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane which are known carcinogens. These are not present in impressionable quantities to cause a threat to health but one must be careful.
Is PEG100 Safe For The Skin Or Harmful?
If properly purified during the production process, PEG 100 is recognized as safe for skin, as it doesn’t have deep penetrating abilities. However, if you have a compromised skin barrier, it is better to avoid PEGs altogether.
The purpose of this article is informative and entertaining. It’s not a substitute for medical consultation or medical care. The author of this article does not accept any responsibility for any liability, loss or risk, personal or otherwise, incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, from any information or advice contained here. Safety should be your priority.
Resources:
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
- https://lizwinterswellness.com/
- https://thedermreview.com/
- https://www.truthinaging.com
- https://harleystreetemporium.com/
- https://realizebeauty.wordpress.com/
- https://www.simplyorganicbeauty.com/
- https://journals.sagepub.com/
- https://www.sophim.com/
